Day 25: Nogaro to Aire-sur-l’Adour (bus)

Half a dozen pilgrims, heads yet held up high

In taking public transport they hardly bat an eye

And in the rest day showing all their social instincts true

With conversation flowing, we drink the whole day through

21 May 2024, Tuesday

Distance hiked: zero

Cheat day (bad knee)

The conspiratorial brotherhood of the cheats: Anne-Laure, Marie, Nhân, me, Dominique and Michèle

A check on the “Lio” website told me of a conveniently timed bus directly to Aire, leaving a little after 9am. I made my way there, bumping into Anne-Laure on the way! “You’re going the wrong way” she said, for I was walking back into town instead of out of it on the Chemin. “Not for the bus!” I responded and explained what I was doing. She’s on a budget and asked how much it would cost, and I said I’d be amazed if it was above 10 euros (it turned out to be 2 euros). She didn’t need any more convincing, given her painful foot. On the way we bumped into Nhân! Similar conversation, and it turned out he had pain in his ankles so also fancied a bit of a rest day. The pied piper of Nogaro had gathered two weak victims…

On the bus we don’t appear to feel too guilty

At the bus stop and, guess what: there was Michèle! I’d expected her to be there of course, but this was turning into quite the party. And then, Dominique showed up! I hadn’t seen her since Moissac so it was lovely to say hi to her. She also was on a cheat day, and the party was getting bigger.

Finally a woman I’d not met before but got to speak to over the next couple of days, a fun character called Marie, joined us, and there were six pilgrims cheating on the bus. It led to a conspiratorial, fun, party atmosphere, and we eased each other’s conscience by being in it together. Michèle, her dignity getting a better run out today than the rest of ours’, got off the bus 10km short of Aire to do at least a part of the day’s walk, and then we arrived at the town shortly after 10am.

A coffee with Deb and Anne-Laure, and Frederica appeared, just leaving for her day’s hike!

At the tourist office we determined there was a walking tour for an hour that turned out to be quite interesting (given the most famous person from this town was the wife of Jean-Marie le Pen, an unpropitious pedigree, I was quite pleased with this). And we were able to leave our rucksacks there for the day, as it was far too early to check in to our respective accommodations.

I was able to take advantage of some scales at the tourist office to weigh my rucksack. I had no water as I wasn’t walking, and it weighed 6kg with everything in it. I was quite pleased with this, well under 10% of my body weight which is reckoned to be the target pack weight for long distance hiking.

Dominique and Anne-Laure, sharing a plinth with St Jacques himself

I’d been in touch by text with Deb, and she’d informed me (despite their having gone on ahead of me since Moissac) that Pat was ailing with something he’d come down with and they were resting at Aire. Pat was in bed all day sleeping it off but Deb was kicking her heels so we met up with her and had a blast for a few hours doing the walking tour and exploring the food market “Les Halles”.

Anne-Laure at this point had an irresistable yearning for McDonalds and determined there was one 4km out of town. She insisted on going there, by herself, for a Big Mac, and despite my exhortations did so by hitch-hiking. A burger is no reward for such risk but she confirmed to me by text she was OK which was something. Dominique, meanwhile, slipped off to her gîte.

Michèle arrived and reported the walk had been somewhat uninspiring, and she, Deb and I lunched together. And then it was time to go to our lodgings in the middle of the afternoon.

At lunch with Michèle. Looking at the photos of this day it’s almost indecent to think how much fun we all had given it was a bunk-off

What a fun day to have spent with these people in a different context from the pounding rhythm of walking. It was fun because it was different, not better, but the serendipity of the meetings and reunions was a feature of what makes this walk so wonderful. The beer and the wine, with the time to drink it, was a pleasure too!

There was literally only one eatery open on this Tuesday evening. I did get a little irritated by this: sure, by convention don’t open on a Sunday, and sure, often places are closed on Mondays too; but the flipside of this consistency in closures is surely consistency in being open the rest of the week. I’d fancied a simple pizza this evening as I’d had a lunch in a restaurant, and there are four pizzerias in Aire. But as I went to each on foot I learned they we all closed. Literally everything, save one brasserie, was closed. Never mind, it served good food and drink, and I ate and drank, so all was well in my world.

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